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The Ultimate Rifle Tip: Real Time Zeroing with Ryan Cleckner | Long-range Shooting


All right so I just got my hands on a
Tikka TAC A1 and a gorgeous Vortex Razor HD scope, but they haven’t been set up
yet. So, before I can try this gun out and see how it performs
we need to zero the scope. I thought, you know what? Why don’t I just walk you
through the whole process as I would do it. You can come along with me and you’ll
see some of the the corrections I make and some of the considerations I’m
having as I go along. So got a fresh target. We normally want
to zero these rifles at 100 yards, or I like to anyway, because then, at no matter
which distance I’m shooting, I always adjust up, right? So a lot of people don’t
realize that when you zero a rifle for 100 yards, and you shoot closer than 100
yards, you actually have to adjust up to hit what you’re aiming, not down. That’s
because your barrel is below the scope and the bullet is still rising to meet the
line of sight at 100 yards, so it’s gonna actually impact low. So I want
to do something that’s not only going to demonstrate that for you, but it’s also a
time-saving tip that I think you should try while you’re zeroing a rifle to save
rounds and make sure that you’re on paper. And that is, start at 25 yards. Just
get a quarter of the distance away so at least you can figure out where you might
be on the paper. So, we’re about 25 yards away here. It doesn’t need to be exact.
Again, we’re just making sure we’re gonna be on paper. I also like to do something
called bore-sighting. We’re gonna do both of those right here, just to see how
close we can get first, and then we’ll confirm, make any adjustments if
necessary, and head back 200 yards. So, if you guys know me you know I like shooting off of a pack. Here’s a cool little accessory that I’ve been using for a
while now that a Ranger buddy of mine made. It’s a little shooting mat that
goes on your bag that I think it’s just handy as can be when you’re doing stuff
like this. He’s a good dude, it’s a good mat. If you guys wanna check them out, it’s
full spectrum solutions. Handy for things like this. So I want to go ahead and get
on the mat, get a little rear bag for myself, and I’m not shooting yet. I’m just
gonna do what I call bore-sighting. So, bore-sighting is, I actually look down
the barrel and point it generally at the target and try and get the scope in the
crosshairs close. So on this gun — get down behind it — I’m just gonna fold
the buttstock so I can see through the barrel easy. Use the bag to get the rifle
nice and stable, because that’s gonna be a key here. And I will get down and look
through the barrel, and aim it at something that I can see or recognize.
Now the trick when you’re bore-sighting — to point it at the object — is to treat
the barrel like it’s two circles, okay? So what I mean is, the back of the barrel —
the chamber — is the beginning, and the end of the barrel is gonna be a smaller
circle as you see down the barrel. Treat those like two circles and make sure
they’re centered with each other, and then put them on the object you’re
looking at because the problem is, if you’re looking through the barrel at the
object, it’s easy to get the barrel misaligned even though you can see the object. So we’ll pick something here. I can actually see the target just fine, so
we’ll line up and get as steady as we can on that, and without moving the rifle,
pick your head up and see where the crosshairs are. You might have to go back and forth a couple times
to make sure. Yeah, we’re kind of off. All right, so I need to bring the reticle up
to match where the barrels pointed, okay? Now the
adjustments on your scope. When you see directions on which way to turn, that’s
for the bullets impact — that’s not the direction the reticle moves. Believe it or not the reticle moves in the opposite
direction of the adjustments. So think
about that for a second. If I want to turn this scope the direction of up,
that’s to move the bullet impact up. And how do you move the bullets impact up?
Well you actually move the reticle down. So next time, you have to raise the
entire rifle to get back on the target, which raises it up. So for me, since I
need to move the reticle up, I’m going to turn this in the “down position” for the
impact. I always take a big chunk, and see how close I am. That’s pretty darn good for the elevation. For the windage, remember opposite the same thing. Alright that’s pretty done close.
I think we’re gonna be on paper. So now, we can go ahead and send
a round and at least it’ll be somewhere where we can see the impact. It’s not
gonna be off in the distance somewhere and have no idea where we’re shooting,
and wasting ammo. So, let’s go ahead and put the bolt back in. That helps. Get our eye in
ear pro on. And just take one shot at 25 yards and
see what it does for us. We’re so close that I gotta adjust my parallax
back or it’s blurry. Okay! Now I still reloaded because, that’s the habit you
should get into when you run a bolt-gun. Well I’ll unload now — we don’t need to shoot a
group, we just want to see where it’s at. Let’s go ahead and walk down to the paper
and see what we got. I’m going to leave my bag here but
I’ll bring the rifle with us. I’ll show you why… Now when you’re making your adjustments,
most of the time you use markings or measurements on the paper, and that’s
fine. So if you understand what minutes-of-angle are — that if you have a minute-of-angle, it’s about one inch at 100 yards, or you can use tenths of mils, which are
centimeters, if you think that way. We have videos to help you figure that out.
But that’s one way to make adjustments. Just keep in mind if you’re at 25 yards, you need to
make four times the adjustment, okay? What I mean is, let’s see,
this one says half-inch grid so, if I was shooting at 100 yards, I need to move up
one, two, three, four. I need to come up two inches. I need to come left about an inch
and a quarter. Well some people might think,
“Oh, two inches, that’s two minutes-of-angle.” NO, that would be two minutes-of-angle if
we were at 100 yards. Since we’re at 25, a minute of angle is
only about a quarter of an inch. So it’s actually four times the adjustment. Instead of two minutes it would be
eight minutes-of-angle, okay? But I have an even easier way to
make an adjustment for you, especially where we’re not trying to get too precise and we just want to get somewhere near where we need to hit. And that’s using the reticle
on the scope. Now at the 25-yard distance I don’t want to adjust the impact right to the dead center, remember we’re going to Zero at 100. Instead we’re gonna zero a
little bit low because we shoot at 25 and the bullet is still rising. So if you’re
gonna make adjustments and try and move in there for a 6.5 Creedmoor, I’d say about three-quarters
of an inch low is where I want it to be 25 yards. For a .308, about an inch low at 25 yards is going to hit right about dead-on at 100 yards. So let’s go back now and use
the method of using our reticle. So instead of trying to do the math because this is a mil scope, and I’ll admit, I learned on minutes
and that’s kind of what I’m stuck on. If I had to start over I’d
probably start with mils but instead of us sitting there doing conversions about
centimeters and yards and meters, this scope has a reticle in it that already
has all my mil adjustments in it. And the beauty is, minutes-of-angle and mils are
angular measurements meaning they’re not a certain size any distance they’re an angle that gets bigger or smaller the further away you get. So I don’t have to
worry about the fact that I was closer. I just look in the reticle and if it says
it needs to come up a mil, I come up a mil because regardless of the distance
I’m at it’s already perfect. So, I like using my reticle for this, so let’s lay
back down and take a look at the reticle and see how much we would need to adjust
to get that impact about three-quarters of an inch low. So to me that looks like I
need to come up about a minute, err… a mil and a half. …see that? I think about minutes
all the time. We need to go up about a mil and a half. Let’s see, it’s a mil. I’ll
do a little less than mil and a half and I need to come to the left one
mil. Now I’m actually going to move
in the direction it says for left because I want to move the impact of the bullet. One mil left, okay? If you want to,
you can take the time and reshoot it here but I know we’re gonna be on paper,
so let’s go ahead and move back to 100 and shoot a group, and we can actually
adjust off of the group. Here’s another reason you’re gonna like this pad. I don’t have to roll it up each time, I can just let it drag behind me because
I don’t care. It makes it easy. If I have to get up and go somewhere to hurry, I don’t have to worry about picking up too many things, just drag it and let’s go. Now the reason we’re gonna go shoot a
group, and why I think it’s worthwhile just to go to the hundred, is you’re not
really ever supposed to adjust off of just one shot because you don’t know if
you made an error, if it’s just the accuracy deviation of the rifle, who
knows? You always want to adjust off of a group so you can have a trend. But we’re
trying to make this as painless as possible and use the least amount of rounds
as possible, so we’ll wait to shoot our group up here. Now when you’re shooting — especially when you’re trying to get groups — I believe more in a theory of a cold shooter than I believe
in a cold gun or a clean bore shot. Take some time to warm up.
I’m gonna do that. I’m gonna lay down, I’m gonna dry-practice a few
times. And make sure that the reticle is not moving when I’m pulling the trigger
before I go ahead and put rounds in. So we’re a hundred yards away now. Let’s lay
our pack back down and shoot some more to see what we can do. So before I put my ammo in, I’m gonna do
the dry practice. Make sure my chamber is empty. Get on the gun. Try and get stable. If you need to, with these pistol-grip chassis, get your thumb on the other side of the gun. Don’t grab it like this. Grab it like this and sometimes that helps. It does for me anyway. So get on the gun and… [Takes a breath] Ahh, I moved it a little bit there. Let’s try that again. When you’re shooting, focus only on the reticle. Ignore the target if you can and
put steady pressure on the trigger… That one felt better! Alright, let’s shoot a group and see we can do… Alright, let’s go down and see our group. I’m gonna leave the rifle here.
Bolt is open, chamber is empty, magazine is away. Let’s go see how we did. Now, I can tell you right now from
already seeing the group, I screwed something up. Maybe that’s the the
benefit for you guys to see this LIVE is we can make a mistake and see what happens. But, whatever adjustments I did at 100 yards, I made them too much. So either I read the reticle wrong and saw
the numbers wrong or I didn’t confirm that was actually a mill reticle.
Whatever I did, I moved it too far. So, let’s go figure it out;
what we need to make adjustments to hit. And here’s the deal, I mean I’ll
go back and watch this video and kick myself for whatever I did wrong but it
doesn’t matter. The groups on the paper! Instead of be sitting here and dwelling
about what happened, we’re just gonna look at where the group actually is, and
then make adjustments from there to get on the target. So, you might have heard
when I was on the rifle there, I said to focus on the reticle and steady pressure
on the trigger. That’s the key. If you can do that and try to especially ignore
your rounds, you’ll be better off. So I saw the first bullet go into
the target way high. I tried to ignore that and if you have problems shooting
groups, get a target that has like all sorts of massive speckles all over it — I have some I’ve made that I give away for folks, we’ll try and put a link for one in
here — and what it does is it hides and camouflages where your impacts are so
you don’t subconsciously do it. That’s not a great group. It’s enough to
adjust off of but here we go. So whatever it is, I was expecting to be here. I made double the adjustment. Here we are, so we can measure on this
on the minutes-of-angle that we need to come down because that’s how I think. I’d say the center group is about there, so we
come down one, two, about three minutes. Come left one minute.
We can convert that to mils or again, we can measure in the reticle and
see what’s going on. So let’s go make our adjustment and shoot another group, and
see if I can tighten that up a little bit and get it on target. So what I’m talking about with
that camouflage target, about not seeing the rounds, the reason is if you’re honest with yourself you’ll have the subconscious effects
sometimes of you see you’re missing a little to the left
so you’ll start favoring a little to the right when you’re trying to shoot the
rest of your group. And that’s horrible, right? I mean, that’s good if
your goal is to hit the target, but when you’re zeroing you’re shooting a group, your
goal is not necessarily to hit the target. Your goal is to get accurate information
about how your equipment is set up and if you’re fudging a little bit one way
or the other, not only is your group not going to be as good as you want
because you’re now going to ruin the group by getting closer to the center, you’re
also not going to have good information for a baseline for your rifle. So when you’re zeroing, allow the group to be
off the target as long as it’s on paper. I could have stopped after the first
round and made an adjustment but I don’t care about being in the center yet. I just care about seeing what that
combination does for me. So, maybe I’ll figure out why I made
the adjustment wrong, maybe I won’t but we’ll make some adjustments and go from there. Okay, I’ll look through the reticle here. Making a measurement again with the Mils. It looks like I need to come down… about point-eight Mils. That’s right there. And I need to come left… about point-two, point-three. So come left… Let’s shoot another group and see we can do. By the way that’s another reason I like
shooting over here. You see what I was able to do with the safety there? You can’t do
that when you’re on the gun like this. Just easier to run the bolt, easier not
to grip it too much. All right, I want to shut up and
try to shoot a better group. Let’s shoot some more… All right. Let’s go downrange and see if the
group is any better and if it’s where we want it to be. Chamber is empty, bolt is back. So I did a risky thing there by shooting
more rounds when I’m sitting here on a live shot, because when you
shoot a 3-round group sometimes it’s easy to get a nice pretty group. And the
temptation is to stop there because your fourth or fifth round you might throw
one way or the other — called a “flyer” and they make the group bigger, but as
far as the statistics or probability go the more rounds that you shoot the
better idea you’re gonna get of your group and not just happen to have a
couple good shots. So, if you picture where the rifles pointed you have like a
“cone of inaccuracy” — that’s the best thing to call it I guess — where the round can
go anywhere within it. So, if you have a gun that shoots a minute-of-angle for
accuracy, that means when the barrel is even locked in a vise that bullet can
end up anywhere within a minute-of-angle. Well sometimes you as the shooter might
accidentally be about a 1/2-minute to the right when you pull the trigger. Well, if that bullet
happens to be to the left side of its area and then the next shot, you shoot
accidentally too far to the left and the bullet happens to be
the right side of its area, you’re gonna have two bullets in the same hole and
think it’s the best gun ever when really you just missed the right way. In the
next group the opposite can happen, you can have double the effect. So more
rounds is better to get a statistical probability. All right, let’s see what we did here. Okay… Looks like I shot two groups. [Laughs] My group is a little better. It’s a half-inch group
because those are the half-inch grids. So 1/2 minute-of-angle gun? Ummm… that’s awesome!
That’s shooting good. I don’t know if that’s the perfect ammo for it or not. We
could definitely shoot another group. Here’s a trick for you. Whenever you take a picture because you
want to post this on Instagram… you’ll be like, “hey look at me
and look at my group,” … you should always use something for scale, right?
So that they can see how big the group is. And here’s another trick. If you use like
your thumb or a coin… You go like that. and you show how small the group is but you
just cover up the bad part. I know that’s what you guys are doing when
you put your coins up there. So that’s something to do I don’t know which is the real group.
Honestly, I’m okay within a half-minute of a hundred yards. I’m
gonna be a little high ora little low. So if I assume that’s the whole group and
I’m gonna have to pick which side I’m gonna be, because maybe your scope only
adjusts so minutely or finitely, I’d rather be a little low. Because at least
if you miss a target where you’re shooting low, you’re likely to see the dirt impact —
you’re likely to see where it is. If you end up being a little too high and
you’re shooting at targets and you shoot over something, it’s gonna be a lot
harder to tell where the miss is. So here, honestly, I would come up about a
half minute-of-angle because that’s the center of my group. And then, I would slip
my scales and shoot out at distance. But… I hope this helps you see my warts and
mistakes and all — how you can go through this. And what did we do that in? I think I shot
five rounds that last group, shot three rounds before, and one at 25.
So, I mean, under 10 rounds and we’ve zeroed the rifle and we have a pretty good feel
about — even if I messed up those groups — how accurate that system can be. Go out. Try it with your gun and don’t freak out when something doesn’t work the way it’s supposed to. Just realize, you’ve got what you got, and adjust from there. I hope you enjoyed this. Thanks for watching!

100 thoughts on “The Ultimate Rifle Tip: Real Time Zeroing with Ryan Cleckner | Long-range Shooting

  1. I Boresight my rifle at night. From my house I can see radio tower that is approximately 1 mile away on top is a bright red light. After aligning my scope with my bore I’m usually within 3 inches at 100 yards. I’ve found the further away the object is when Boresighting the closer your first shot will be.

  2. You're doing it the hard way. A ballistic calculator can tell you the distance from the bore a given load's bullet crosses the line of sight for a given sighted-in distance. Instead of shooting from 25 yards, shoot from the calculated distance. After the first shot, put the reticle on the bullseye/point-of-aim and hold the rifle steady while a buddy turns the scope turrets until the reticle is over the bullet hole. You can do it by yourself if you have a gun rest/vice that will hold it steady while you make the scope adjustments. Now the gun is basically sighted in for the sighted-in distance (200 yds?). Check your work from the sighted-in distance (200 yds?) by shooting a few rounds and make any final scope adjustments. It's really that simple.

  3. Old school bore sighting. Love it. I typically make adjustments until the target is in the bottom 1/3 of the bore. Works like a charm.

  4. Ha! You were GREAT! I the 25 yard note bore site was mostly for demo purpose anddemonstration the need to to move the reticle up, or equivalently the group down, because of the barrel being below the scope. I think bore siting while starting on the 100 yrd taken is going to work most every time it you have a clue, but including the 25 yard illustrated valuable concepts, so perfect job. I haven't looked through to see where the 25 to 100 yd adjustment wrror went wrong. But I will, and like you said no big dea. Your final 100 yard zero was a perfect demo. 5 rounds was a great point, and yes when you really want a small group, your subconscious can "help" you, but need to fight it because it WON'T help", ONLY hurt.

    TWO things: Are first focal plai reticles becoming so universal that mentioning both types is not relevant any more? I hope so because first plane is it for sure. One more question: Will rising or falling (or just changing) bullet point of impact vary with changes in barrrel temperature? So could the split in your 5 shot group be due to rising barrel temp? If so, is the barrel not sress relieved enough (poor barrel), or is ther more to it? This in advance. Loves the video!!

  5. better keep that muzzle ahead of the bag. blast will rip a big hole. good video i learned a lot. just getting to long range. i leave my rifle but no ammo.

  6. Why not just bore sight , fire 1 shot and then without moving your gun , adjust your cross hairs onto that hole … gun is now sighted .

  7. Good video..I think the Mat is the coolest thing.I want to buy myself one.
    You do a great break down of all information..Where to get a mat like that one?

  8. THAT WAS AWESOME !….THANK YOU FOR YOUR INPUT…. LOOKING FORWARD TO MORE OF YOUR VIDEO'S……THANX…..B.K.

  9. some day, you'll look back and see somebody running off with your $6000 rifle and scope. Either lock it in your vehicle, or take it down range with you.

  10. SOOOO much great information! I watched it twice to absorb as much as possible, Thank-you! Keep them coming!

  11. Great video! Hey Ryan Cleckner… What ear pro are you using and are those electronic? I use a little bit different method to zero that can use even less ammo and is very simple and easy to understand, especially for inexperienced shooters. I use a Caldwell Zero Max rest which is only about $28 off Amazon. Bore sight like usual for a newly scoped rig and shoot a 3-5 shot group how you are normally going to shoot in the field, off bags or a bipod ETC. Then, instead of having to measure off the reticle or "guessing" how far to dial if you're using a plain duplex reticle you use the Zero Max rest to hold the rifle still and adjust the rest until the reticle is exactly lined up on your original point of aim. Then carefully, with the rifle PERFECTLY still, look through your scope without bumping the rifle off target and dial the reticle from the original point of aim over to where the center of your group is and fire another shot without using the Zero Max rest for zero confirmation. Once the rifle is "zeroed", the next time you take it out you can confirm and adjust the zero in as few as 1-3 shots! Easy peasy and can save you a ton of time and ammo.

  12. I disagree with you here. Not your technique or your explanation. If you can afford the ammo, I always fire my rifle to zero. I know its expensive, but for me its not just about saving some money, its about how the rifle shoots, is the scope mounted properly and tight. are my reticles standing where I want them. Good job though, nice technique as well.

  13. Thank you Ryan. A really good video with loads of instruction and good ideas.
    However I failed to catch where you got that superb aid to target shooting ie that bloody roll up mat. What a great product!! could you please repeat where it is from.

    Cheers Pal!

  14. I'm reading your book now, Ryan. Your techniques have made me a much better shooter and now a competent hunter. Thank you very much.

  15. Dumb question time; was the gentleman shooting; North to South or east to west?
    Many of us have Heard about ; The spinning earth variables?
    can I get some help here?

  16. It's simply amazing that the sorry motherfucker's at youtube cannot open any links that come from gun channels , yet if it's a video from the lgbt freaks they can open the limks , go figure ! Great video Mr. Cleckner !

  17. Do you have any suggestions to bore sight the scope through the barrel if you cannot remove the bolt carrier group? Such as an M-14/M1A rifle.

  18. I sight mine in for 300 so when I am hunting closer say at 50 yards I am avg of 1.7 high…that means if I am center mass I am definitely still in the kill zone. If it is 200 yards I may be with say my 7mag 4.4' high but on a moose, elk or even deer at center mass I am well within a killing shot zone and can clip lungs with hydro-static shock accompanying that it is a DRT. There are many competition shooters who hunt that do this, not all but many hold to it the way I do. Has never failed me personally. My brother had a 378 yard shot at a 7pt royal bull this last season and if he would have kept the rifle where i had put it instead of changing to 100yd zero it would have been meat in the freezer. Now this was with his 7mm-08 and 140's with a slight 4" down hairline which accounted for a miss and hes still kicks himself for it. I tell him losing 900lbs of hamburger is no loss (I don't trophy hunt anymore). Sooooo…..there is always more ways to skin a cat, I sight in the same way as Ryan does. My oldest brother was Ranger sniper LLRP in 'nam '63-65 before regulars hit the ground. Love the humility in Ryan….could shoots the light out of anybody on this video I am sure.

  19. The 200 people that gave a thumbs down must not understand what he was trying to teach the rest of us that gave him a thumbs up.

  20. For the record that is NOT how you should zero a Gen2 Razor if you want to be able to use the "Zero" stop on the elevation turret.

  21. When you shot from 25 yards your background behind the target was the sky. Not very clever I,m afraid. When I was a kid a neighbour was killed by a 223 round that missed the prey and went thru a thicket and travelled over a mile.

  22. I have a question I haven't seen addressed in any video. My rifle is zeroed. I know the distance to my target and the amount of adjustment needed. So, do I adjust the turret or just raise the rifle for a holdover? Oh, and where can I get the drag bag and pouch?

  23. Just wanted to say of all the videos out there on precision shooting yours are the best by far. Great information great presentation but then again I would expect nothing less from an army sniper……Thanks Mike

  24. What a GREAT teacher/coach. Anyone can see exactly why he was picked to be a sniper instructor! I’m about 4 or 5 videos into the channel, anybody interested in this subject needs to subscribe!!! 10/10

  25. I was DM for 7 years, suffered from some serious medical issues and forgot many aspects of shooting…..some things I just knew and couldn't articulate what I was doing just training imbedded in ya, thank you for this video sir, it bring back many ah ha moments for me. Appreciate your time and knowledge.

  26. I take one shot then adjust by putting redicle back on the bullseye. While not moving the gun move my redicle to the impact point, then take another shot, 99% of the time I’m dead on.

  27. So, how come you NEVER answer emails sent to NSSF and the WALKER GAME EARS program, that were given away to mentors ? I've been waiting for a year for mine. Not a very good way to promote the shooting sports industry with freebies and then not get an answer. Sounds like all gun enthusiasts should vote for Bernie Sanders.

  28. There's a problem here. Scopes can have a first focal plain reticle or a second focal plain reticle. For this to work on a second focal plain scope (most scopes), the scope needs to be set to where the reticle is accurate. Usually this is at max magnification. On a first focal plain scope the reticle is accurate at all magnifications. If you have a second focal plain scope you need to set the magnification it to where the reticle is accurate. Otherwise very well done.

  29. Can any real and very experienced sniper tell me whether you really do take into account the earth's curve and rotation for long-range accuracy?

  30. 6.5 grendel ftw lighter,WAY cheaper to shoot,steel case ammo is cheaper than .556 its better than a .308 past 500 yards,with 30% less recoil and 2-4 lbs lighter why the US military didn't go with 6.5 all is beyond me its a 762×39 and .556 mutant child and it truly is a 600+ yard gun like i said it is better than .308 in almost every way

  31. Great and easy to follow instructions! I just ordered you book and ready to learn more . Do you show in your book about mills or minutes of angle as if I was looking through a scope? It would be helpful to show the inside of a scope/crosshairs. Thanks

  32. {Thats not a great group" He put 3 rounds through a cm circle at 100 metres and he says it isn't good. I wish I could shoot that bad.

  33. Why you reload so fast lol ! There is no Taliban in front of you don't worry ( just kidding 😉 , greetings from France , thanks for your videos )

  34. Great video! Terrain looks like my my home territory. Used the tips yesterday and saved lots of ammo in relation to previous sessions. Thanks!

  35. At the beginning Ryan sights-in at 25 yards, setting the scope to agree with the barrel is a serious mistake at 25 yards. Ryan's rifle looks to have a scope to bore distance of about 2", this means shots at longer distances will be hi and even off the paper! You should always measure the true center-to-center distance of the scope to the barrel bore and at short distances like 25 yards, use a marked target with 2 spots set the same distance. If your point of aim and point of impact at 25 yards agree with the center to center distance, then you'll be on the paper at 100 yards by the same amount minus a little drop, if any. Then at 100 yards you can bring the POA and POI to a 'zero' in a few clicks without burning thru a whole box of ammo. Of course, adjust your scope to shift a 3 shot group you made, don't over-correct for each individual shot. If you use any good ballistics program, they always ask for the sight-to-bore distance, it's important to working out your hold-overs at all distances. I've seen guys do a literal 25 yard 'zero' and shoot 4 feet over the target at 100 yards! Your shots could be over the back-stop and hit something miles away!

  36. How I do it. Enter your ammo and scope height in a ballistic calculator and get the distance low at 25. Shoot 1 rnd at 25 and measure your moa x and y. Adj and 1 more shot. Now move to 100 for a group.

  37. And even easier way to adjust at 25 yards is, set up your rifle so the reticle is centered on the target. Then, without moving the rifle, adjust the reticle to be 3/4" or 1" above the bullet hole. No thinking required. 🙂

  38. Another great Video Ryan
    I'd bet that; when you watched this back, you caught your Math Error ; )
    Like how (in this Video) you showed "Boresighting" the Scope first, then made the needed changes, before you threw Lead "somewhere"
    It has always bothered me when a Scope is Reviewed and it's such a "Piece of Junk" all because the Shooter really doesn't understand the science or how to properly set it up

  39. No joke, everything I’ve learned about Mil’s, MOA and scope adjustments in general I’ve learned from these videos! Thanks for being so informative for a new shooter like myself.

  40. The reason your rounds went high is… when you shot your first round, it hit just about right, the only adjustment should have been to the left. Depending on the height of your scope. Looking at the center line of the scope and the center line of the bore, about 2 inches. at 25 yards, the rounds should be hitting to 2 inches low. I shoot a 6.5 x 20 x 50mm Leupold on my rifle and have to use extra high bases, so I'm right at 2 inches low at 25 yards.

  41. The video is great. I'm surprised mil turrets are so popular in the USA. Maybe it's tachticool. Everyone I have helped thinks in terms of inches and moa. I actually prefer the dreaded milradian reticle and moa turrets. I range with my reticle and dope with the turrets. If I want to dope with the reticle, the first 3 dots can be used as 3, 7, 10 moa. I never hold off more than 10 moa, not accurate enough.
    Another reason to zero at 100yds is a lot of public ranges don't allow people to walk to the further targets not to mention all of the extra walking plus with my optics I can see the holes at 100yds. After you zero at 100yds you can set your turret to any range you like. If you think 200yds is best for where you are hunting, dial your turret to 3 moa or what ever is appropriate.

  42. The way I learned, shoot 3 then adjust the scope from center of target to where the group landed. Takes all the math and calculations out of it. I am on target after 3 shots.

  43. works great until you find your scope is shooting 4 feet low…. than you have to wedge the dam thing so you don't use up all the adjustment on the scope just to sight it in.

  44. At 73 years old, it's been a few years since I could shoot prone so I use the bench. You younger guys have no friggin' idea what's in store as your get older. It's not fun! When you think about all the variables, a .5" group is fantastic. Even if you load your own ammo, think about wind alone and that's enough sometimes to really affect your groups. Factor in temperature of the barrel, harmonic distortion and the fact that we're only human and I would never complain about a group this size. Well done. Great video.

  45. What if I didn't have a mil-dot reticle? Wouldn't I get zeroed if I just adjusted my scope from middle of target to the cluster that was up and to the right?

  46. Good shooting there Ryan, even with your wandering thumb on the wrong side of the pistol grip, after all these years it seems bad habits die hard. Try sighting in at 100 meters & using metric measurements, a good laser range finder will assist with this.

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