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Swap Savage Barrels – 1000 Yard Savage Axis Budget Long Range Rifle | The Social Regressive

swapping barrels on a savage rifle is
actually pretty easy you do need a couple of specialized tools though first
off you’re going to need a barrel vise and the appropriate bushings for your
barrel you’re going to need a barrel nut wrench and these are pretty cheap and
you’ll need headspace gauges to make sure that headspace is correct when you
actually get this all put together and aside from that you’ll need just some
basic tools you’ll probably have lying around your garage you’ll need a wrench
to tighten the the barrel vise down and if you have a torque wrench it’s going
to be a nice way to attach the barrel nut but you can also use a mallet and
I’ll show you that method here in a minute
so what we’re going to be doing is we’re going to be removing this 308 barrel
from this savage axis and we’re going to be replacing it with this 7 millimeter
oh 8 that came off a Steven’s 200 this is the outgoing budget rifle from Savage
for those of you that aren’t familiar with the the bill that we’re doing here
you should probably subscribe to the social or aggressive so that you can see
the new videos that come out and if you’d like us on Facebook there’s some
behind the scenes little goodies for you and then this playlist down here we’ll
have everything in it because what we’re doing is we are taking a savage axis and
we’re turning this into a thousand-yard competition rifle we’ve already done a
trigger job on this thing and now it’s time to get the superior ballistics of
seven millimeter oh wait our first step is to select the correct diameter and
profile of our barrel bushings so I’ve selected some here okay this one we’re
definitely not going to use this looks like it’s for a bull barrel this is very
fat and it’s straight okay so this one right here you can see has some taper to
it so this is more like a sport or weight barrel profile like we have here
but I’ve gone ahead and I’ve actually selected the correct one that’s going to
fit our barrel the best we want a bushing that’s going to fit pretty well
back toward the action we want to have all of our torque centered right here
around the the area of work here we don’t want to be
grabbing out on the end of the barrel so this one it has a little bit of a taper
to it as it should and it locks neatly into place
right about there on the barrel if you’re concerned about the fit of your
bushing maybe it doesn’t fit exactly you can just wrap a piece of paper around
your barrel put it between the barrel and the bushing and that should protect
the finish on your barrel here I have the barrel placed inside the bushing
make sure that you put the wrench on first I don’t know how many times I’ve
done this where I get the barrel all tightened down and realize I didn’t
actually put the wrench on so just let that hang and now it’s time to tighten
down the barrel vise don’t have a big breaker bar no problem just make sure
you’re going the correct direction when you start we are turning the nut on to
the barrel that way so it’s going to be clockwise okay so that’s loose and
theoretically this action should be loose enough to come off now I think
they put some kind of material maybe some epoxy or something on the threads
here so it’s always a little tricky to take this off the first time so we’ll
just have to oh no nevermind there goes that just turns right off all right this
is really weird when we turned the action off we’re seeing tons and tons of
these little metal shavings these little metal balls and we can tell they’re
metal because they are actually sticking to this magnet here and they are all
over the threads of the the the barrel there here inside the action I have no
idea what this is but I’m guessing it’s not really supposed to be there it
doesn’t look like anything’s damaged though so I think we’ll just clean this
up and then go ahead and attach that barrel unless there’s some revolutionary new
technique of jamming your threads of metal filings I’m guessing that this was
a huge mistake it took a while to clean this out we had to clean the action the
nut and the barrel and finally everything’s nice and smooth this
thing’s turning on nicely time to loosen up device and get this barrel out now
that we have our cleaned up action it’s time to put the seven millimeter Oh 8
barrel on and first we need to put this and the wrench here on the now vacated
barrel vise before you start screwing the action in place make sure that you
have your barrel nut pretty far forward on the threads and you have your wrench
hanging off the barrel I don’t know how many times I’ve done this where I forget
to put the wrench on there and then I have to do all my work over again so all
you have to do is just start threading the action back on and once you’ve gone
a few threads in open up your bolt and this is where we start putting in the
headspace gauge this is a go gauge and it’s pretty much just a cartridge is
what it’s in this is like a case it has a rim just like a case and it has a
shoulder and this is meant to be a headspace gauge for everything in a 308
family of cartridges this will work on 308 seven millimeter oh eight like this
barrel 260 Remington 243 Winchester and when you put this in you just want to
make sure that this rim actually does snap over the extractor on your bolt so
instead of just popping this directly into the chamber I’m going to actually
attach this to the bolt and run the bolt in close the bolt and then continue
threading your action on to the barrel and at some point this is going to come
to a stop okay so that’s it right there you don’t want to just crank this on to
the barrel that’s going to create a little bit too tight a space what you
want is just fingertip tight now once you have that take your barrel nut
thread it the other direction and snug it up against the action and this time
since I actually have the wrench in place I’m just going to slowly turn that
nut on okay you can see that this action just turned on me while I was turning
the nut and that has changed our dimension so it looks like this one is
just a little bit too loose of fit sometimes you can get away with just
tightening the nut onto the action but apparently this is not one of those
times so what I’m going to do is just back this off a few threads and put a
little bit of Loctite on the threads let that solidify let it dry for a little
while and then we’ll come back and try putting the nut on again the lock tight
should have dried by now in here so now it’s time to turn this wrench and turn
the barrel nut on to the action and in the meantime I did take the go gauge out
so let’s make sure to put that back in I’m going to put this back under the
extractor okay so that’s under the extractor feed that into the chamber all
right and this still closes down now it’s time to turn the wrench turn this
nut on and just for safety’s sake I’m going to go ahead and apply a little
torque this way to make sure this doesn’t break the nut or break the
action loose and spin the action off as well okay that’s looking pretty good and
now one thing that I can do at this point I can use a torque wrench and
although I haven’t seen any actual technical specs from savage about how
much torque to put on this I’ve read around the you know 35 pound-feet of
torque is what you’re after now most of you guys probably won’t have a torque
wrench so there’s a pretty quick way to do this just take a mallet and give this
thing a wrap tada done give it a second one and really
that should be on there good and tight all right next we need to make sure that
the headspace is correct everything should be good but just to make sure
that nothing walked out I’m going to remove the go gage and I’m gonna drop
this back into its protective sleeve and now we’re going to do the no go gage this one is a just a little bit longer I
think it’s three thousandths longer and the bolt should not close on this gage
if it does start over do it again okay so I finally got that under the
extractor goes into the chamber and this should not close nope
that is going nowhere perfect so the headspace is correct
put the no-go gauge back into this sleeve and that’s it
this thing is complete and we can just pull this out of the vise you

56 thoughts on “Swap Savage Barrels – 1000 Yard Savage Axis Budget Long Range Rifle | The Social Regressive

  1. Do you put anything on the threads before you put the action on? Something like lock-tite, anti seize, etc.?

    Also, why the llama for your logo?

  2. Thanks for the great video! Im working on a .243 axis for coyote hunting and your series has really been helpful.

  3. That's the good stuff. I know my R700 actions inside out, Its great to see how easy the Savage barrel change is with that barrel nut. Ill be over next week to use your vice .

  4. Awesome video but AHHH! Double check the go gauge at the end again just to be safe! Being "sorry" sucks!!! :

  5. Great Video, this is one thing I love about the Savage Rifles, You don't need a Machinist to install a custom Barrel.

  6. Bow Hunter 85, If Your bolt won't close on the no go gauge Your good to go . That 6.5 Creedmoor is impressive. Good luck Sir.

  7. question how you know the action and barrel is level straight with each other if you mount the barrel action onto the stock front sight is not canted crooked

  8. good video. i am getting ready to do this w/a savage model 12 lrp in 6.5 creedmoor. I have heard/read/seen that the extractor should be removed. noticed you did it by putting the go/no go gauges "under" the extractor. ever have any issues w/that technique?

  9. is it possible to install a 7mm remmag barrel onto a savage axis? what other modification would you have to do in order to get it

  10. Why do you change the barrel? Is it not possible to continue improving the rifle with the same barrel instead of changing it?

  11. Dear Social Regressive,

    I am thinking about getting myself set up for long range shooting (not competition, at least, not yet, just for me). I would hardly consider myself poor, so I would consider my top end budget for a rifle/scope/system somewhere around 1500. Like you, I don't like the Savage plastic stocks. Actually, truth be told, I don't get excited about traditional stocks in general. I saw a Mossberg MVP LC using an Almuminum frame/stock using AR pistol grips and buttstocks. I liked the stock, but have concerns about the 20" barrel it comes with. The same can be said about the Savage 10 BA Stealth. Both come in around the same cost of about 1K. (The chassis alone, according to the MDT website for their LSS is $400)

    My question then starts out with "Is 1000 yard accuracy out of the question with a 20" barrel?" And depending on that answer, is it any harder/more expensive to change the Mossberg barrel out for a 24" than it is the Savage rifles?

    I have no plans on being able to get into reloading in the immediate future (I live in a Studio apartment, so no space or workshop), so I was planning on sticking to factory .308 ammo.

    Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me in this regard. I watched most of your 500 dollar 1000 yard series. neat and informative, overall, well done.

  12. I have a Savage model 11 Hog Hunter. The barrel nut on it has no splines to use the action with. How do you remove the barrel nuts on Savage actions that have the smooth barrel nut? I am thinking of re-barreling it to a 450 Bushmaster or 6.5 Creedmoor.

  13. OK so this is a $500 gun in name only. There is no way the average shooter will have the resources you have to build this Frankenstein. An interesting playlist no doubt but not within reach of your average shooter.

  14. I have watched most of your videos in this build series and find them very informative and interesting to watch so thanks for the educational content. I wonder since you took the barrel off your one beautifully digitized camo rifles, did you put the .308 barrel that you took off this Savage for your build and put it on it or go with a different barrel and caliber all together? I have found this pretty neat and have been thinking of what caliber rifle I want to go with next just to have something else to shoot aside from my wonderful .270 without going with the more common calibers that most of my family already has like the .30-06, .300 Win Mag, 243 Win, etc… and 7mm-08 has come to mind quite a few times. I don't have a lot of money or the tools or shop, but I may just make the 7mm-08 my next caliber rifle, and who knows make a few improvements like you have shown. Thanks again and happy shooting.

  15. Nickel is magnetic it may have been a anti seize lube and being a firearm they would have used the larger sized particle for better lockup when tightened as the bushing nut is thin

  16. Great video, i was wondering though if it would be beneficial to remove the extractor and firing pin assemblies when head spacing using the go/no go guages, would give zero resistance and a more accurate feel. just a thought- keep up the good vids.

  17. Thanks for the video! Awesome content so far. Would this process be the same with an aftermarket prefit barrel, or would additional gunsmithing be required? Does the barrel nut itself essentially set the final headspace as long as the chamber is correct? I just feel like this is a project I could hadle, but if it gets to the point of reaming the chamber or anything like that I'llk probably just take it to a gunsmith. Thanks again!

  18. I have an axis 223 am i able to swap barrels to a large caliber like 300 winmag? I’m assuming the axis 223 is a short action?

  19. Not sure I will end up doing most of this, but I am loving the series anyway! Awesome presentation with almost no questions left unanswered.

  20. When you installed the action onto the barrel with the go gauge did you go until the bolt touched the barrel and then tightened there or did you give it a little space, oh about .005"?

  21. Hey question, would it be almost the same if I wanted to do that with a Ruger American? I’m lefty and want a 300 blackout. So the bolt head wouldn’t be a problem. Or should I just get a savage axis and do what you did?

  22. I'm wondering if you could do the same with a Savage model 99. Really like the lever action and the looks of the rifle just not happy with the accuracy. Thanks nice video

  23. This is far from a $500 gun. Because he swapped the barrel out. In the beginning he said he wasn’t going to swap the barrel. So now he is in the $800 range. How many people have a barrel around? Wonder if he going to go over on anything else.

  24. Excellent video, but my advice is to leave or clean and re-apply the anti-seize lubricant on the thread and then apply torque.

  25. Good video, but you should have checked the no-go gage before applying the hammer. You went a little to far before checking the no-go gage. But what you did worked. Please things correctly when making a teaching video.

  26. Great video. Two things to help regular people out:
    1: You can rent a torque wrench from any auto parts store. You get all of your deposit back when you return it, so it's essentially free to use.
    2: You don't need a barrel vise. Take a block of wood and drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of your barrel (15/16" hole for a 1" barrel) in the middle. Cut the block in half, dissecting the hole, and place it around your barrel in a normal vise. The slightly smaller hole will hold your barrel very securely and wood won't mar your finish.

  27. I usually remove the extractor and ejector during headspacing. One of the little magnet wands you find at auto parts stores works well for retrieving the gauges.

  28. To cut cost, after bead blasting they don't clean it. It doesnt hurt the rifle because the pitch/valley of the threads do not contact and don't need too. They wanted the same barrels across the board for their products but had to cut corners to keep the price lower, thus the dirty threads. Either way I've owned 5 of these rifles and when I blue printed them i'm my shop, they all had it. Some people freak out but it's as harmful as mud on your tires lol.

  29. That is probably small blasting shot. And, it's hard. When I first received my Predator HB I inspected the bolt head and noticed small scratches in the direction that would be consistent with bolt closure. Some of those beads had been drug into the metal of the locking lugs on the outside and lug mating face to the point where they were embedded in the bolt and causing small scratches. I had to work with a Dremel wire brush and 400 grit wet dry for 30 minutes before I first inserted the bolt. I also blew out the receiver area for about 2 minutes. First trip to the range and there were additional scratches that showed up on the bolt.
    Apparently, they aren't to careful about cleaning when they fit the barrel/bolt.

    If you really want to see something scary, look at the receiver's bolt lug mating surfaces with a borescope…that stuff caused scratches there, as well, and overall it looks like late WWII wartime production in Japan–extremely ragged milling.

  30. Thank you for posting this Video, I am wanting to get a Savage Axis Rifle in a .270 Win. and do a Remage to a 7mm Rem. Mag. , is that possible ?

  31. I did a barrel swop thanks for your vids the new 260 rem is verry nice I'll start making hand loads this weekend

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