Hello, my name is Yannick and I’m about to tell you how the FX Power Plenum kit is installed. But before I do so I’ll show you which tools and lubricants are needed. A list of which, you’ll find below. These are the tools we’re going to use: It’s an 1.5 mm allen key 2 mm allen key 2.5 mm allen key 3 mm allen key 4 mm allen key a pair of pliers a socket or spanner size 11 a socket or spanner size 22 a reliable calliper a small torch and multiple punches. What you also need are different cleaners and lubricants. We use Interflon oil Abbey silicone grease BoreTech degreaser Loctite or 2-component glue and we’ve got soft inserts for the vice. We’ve got these in different sizes which are available at Krale.shop. Before we start taking things apart we first need to make sure the airgun is empty. We do this by loosening the bottle. You can hear is hiss. Now we cock the rifle… …return the lever… …and pull the trigger. You can hear the air bleeding away. Now I know, by checking the pressure gauge that the airgun is empty. This is the pressure gauge… The needle stands at zero. and the pressure gauge of the regulator is also at zero. Now we know for sure the airgun is free of pressure and after removing the bottle it’s time to remove the barrel. That’s easily done by undoing this allen screw. Just loosen it, don’t turn it all out. And simply pull out the barrel. That’s how easy it is to remove the barrel of an FX Impact. Now we’ll remove the rail and cheek piece. Next thing is to take this upper off. Now everything is unscrewed I take the whole upper and put it carefully down like this. There’s a difference in length of the screws and by this you’ll know for sure every allen screw will stay in the right place. The next step is removing this assembly. The same goes here: take it off carefully keep it in the right position and put it down like this. The next part we’ll remove is the power adjustment knob. Simply unscrew it. Now I’ll take the socket. This part isn’t very tightly fitted so always be careful with this one. It can now be taken off… …and this is the part where things get a bit difficult. I always use a piece of emery cloth and a pair of pliers so I don’t damage the valve rod. I grip it firmly. Most of the time, this part will be glued stuck so I need to heat it a little. The glue begins to smoke. With a small punch I can unscrew it. With a piece of cloth I prevent burning my fingers… …and I slowly release it. Now I’m going to remove the buffer the hammer the spring guide and the spring. This is the buffer this is the hammer this synthetic tube is the spring guide and this is the spring. Time to split these two parts. I loosen the allen bolt on this side. Freeing the tube that can now be pulled out. And that’s how you split these parts. Next thing to remove is this tube, for which this allen screw needs to be loosened. Simply pull it out. Put this part to the side. First I need to clean this before putting it in the vice to prevent the soft inserts getting greasy. I clamp it and twist off the tube. These are the old parts coming from the air rifle and these are the new parts that need to go in. The only part we re-use in the new system is the hammer seat. We put together the plenum. First the valve seat goes in. Here’s an indent that needs to allign with the allen screw in here. Before fitting I put some silicone grease on the O-rings. Now it’ll slide in smoothly. The flat side needs to allign with the end of the allen screw. Eventually you’ll feel it positioning itself. After which I’ll tighten it with just two fingers. Not to tight to prevent ruining the thread. We take the valve rod and put some oil on it. Just to protect the O-ring. Not to much. This will slide in carefully. Next, I take this part and put some silicone grease on the O-rings. Also on these. These two O-rings need to be put in place: a PUR O-ring and a normal O-ring. First one in is the PUR O-ring. A tiny bit of silicone grease. And in it goes. Push carefully and make sure it is fully seated. Now the other greased O-ring follows on top. Both O-rings are now fully seated. Before I… …connect these I put a dab of silicone grease on the thread. The thread will pass through the O-rings and you don’t want them to get damaged. I carefully push it through and slightly draw back the valve rod a bit to make screwing the adapter onto the plenum easier. The hole of the transfer port needs to allign perfectly with the hole in here. Now the Power Plenum can be attached to the rear piece. In here is an allen screw and here’s a flat side and both need to allign. A tiny bit of silicone grease on the O-rings. The front and rear can now be joined. But first some silicone grease to the O-rings. Then I’ll slide it in. The small dot on top needs to be perfectly centered. I tighten it just ever so slightly. Time to put in the hammer spring. Followed by the spring guide/hammer weight and the hammer itself. What we’re going to do now is degrease the thread of the valve rod. Making sure to remove all the glue deposits I do the same in the hammer seat. A tiny bit of green Loctite on the first part of the thread. Hold it firmly! In a minute I screw on the hammer seat. Again, hold with a pair of pliers and emery cloth. With a small punch I turn it into the right position. Now I carefully let it slide home. I meaure from the front of the hammerseat to the front of the casing. Which should be between 6 and 6.5 mm. Next to go in are the valve adjuster and valve stop. For this bit also goes: tighten ever so carefully. No need for Loctite or glue. Now I take this spring… …and push it home. This O-ring often is very dry so I put some silicone grease on it. Just a very small amount. When I want to go for maximum power, I turn it until the fourth indication ring like this. It’s time to install the pellet probe assembly. I grab that just as I have put it away. And pay special attention to this. On the underside, a pin protrudes. That needs to be pushed right into the hole in this arm. This is exactly how it should be. What I’m about to do is something many of you forget. I hold it firmply into place here at the front and measure it on the rear. The distance from the rear of the block… …needs to be between 44.4 and 44.7 mm. That distance is critical to make sure the pellet probe will allign perfectly with the transfer port. Now this is mounted and set at the right distance it’s time to assemble the upper part. All screws are still nicely in position. Lower it gently. And now I start tightening in a cross pattern. And don’t tighten them fully yet… …let the screws find their position. And now it’s time to fully tighten them. Again, do not overtighten. On with the cheek piece. And the rail. And finally the barrel can be refitted again. Before I slide in the barrel I put some silicone grease on the O-rings. Please note this side. By gently twisting you feel it sliding into place. You can hear it ‘click’.. It’s only now we fully tighten this bolt… …and mount the bottle. And that’s how you install the FX Power Plenum kit!