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How To Setup a Magnetic Pick Up Distributor For Sniper EFI


Congratulations on your purchase of a Sniper
EFI system. The Sniper EFI system is compatible with several
popular ignition configurations. In this video I am going to show you how to
properly wire and set up the system for magnetic pickup distributor using the ECU to control
timing All timing advance or retard functions will
be performed by the ECU. This ignition option starts with a timing
control specific mag pickup distributor or mag pick up distributor with the advance properly
locked out. a phaseable ignition rotor, a Sniper coil
driver module or a CD Box, and a compatible coil. The ECU needs to receive a clean input signal,
vehicles that have excessive Electro-magnetic interference ( EMI ) or RF noise issues can
compromise these signals, as well as other control circuits resulting in poor performance
or drivability issues. Proper grounds, spark plugs, ignition wires
and wire routing are critical for trouble free operation. Non resistor spark plugs and solid core wires
may have worked with your carburetor but they will not work with EFI. A common sign trouble is if your radio whines
with the engine running. If you have EMI or RF issues they need be
corrected. You will need to properly install and phase
the distributor pick up and rotor before proceeding. There are a couple ways to perform this task. I’m going to show you the way I have found
to be the easiest to follow with great success. Before you get started you will need to disconnect
the negative battery terminal. And remove the fuel pump relay
If your removing an old distributor remove the ignition wires and use some compressed
air to clean the area around the distributor mounting location. You don’t want any debris falling into the
opening when you remove the distributor Remove the spark plug from the number one
cylinder and turn your crankshaft in the direction of rotation until you are approaching number
one on its compression stroke. You can stick your finger in the hole as you
rotate the crank until you feel pressure to confirm you’re on the compression stroke
or you can use a top dead center whistle. I like the whistle, because not only will
it identify the compression stroke it will also give you a pretty quick way to validate
that your TDC pointer and balancer mark are in check. Over the years I have seen many mismatched
balancers and pointers or old balancers that have allowed the outer shell to slip giving
you a false reference point. Once you have confirmed you are approaching
number one on the compression stock turn the crank to 45 degrees before top dead center
If your balancer is not indexed you can measure the diameter then multiply it by 3.14 divide
that total by 360 and multiply that total by 45. Or skip the math and simply follow this chart
for common balancer diameters and measure this distance from your zero mark to find
your 45 degree reference point. Marking the reference distance on a piece
of masking tape is handy for this. Next you will need to install your distributor. Make sure that the gear is compatible with
your camshaft and dry fit it without the gasket installed. If it bottoms out without making contact to
its mating surface, you will need to remedy the situation. This is common if the block, heads or intake
have been machined. If your distributor has a slip color you can
adjust it, or most of the time a second gasket will be enough to take care of the situation. If your cam and distributor have been previously
run together and you are going to be starting the engine right away, a generous coating
of engine oil on the gear should be fine. If not coat the gear with a quality moly lubricant. point the rotor in the general direction you
want to position the #1 plug wire and install the distributor. If the oil pump drive does not line up, you
can turn it with a long screw driver or an oil pump priming tool. If you do not like the location or you find
that something on the distributor interferes with something on the intake you can pull
the distributor and reposition it as required just remember to keep the rotor pointed n
the general direction you want number one. now line up the sensor pole with a reluctor
point and lock down the distributor. At this point you will need to phase the rotor. For a street car I would phase it at the mid-point
of your timing curve. For a race application, phase it at your critical
timing point. This may be your peak timing on a naturally
aspirated car or at a retarded value for a nitrous or turbo application. For this example, I’m going to say my street
small block here runs at 20 degrees minimum, and 40 max. The mid-point is 30 degrees. I am going to continue to rotate my crank
to 30 degrees BTDC and align my rotor with the terminal on the cap I am going to use
for number 1 and properly tighten the screws. If you have an old cap you can drill some
view ports like I have with this one to make a handy set up tool. Now you can reinstall your ignition wires. Now would be a great time to pick up a new
set and some fresh spark plugs at the same time. From the set up wizard, ignition setup icon
or the PC software, select Magnetic as your ignition type. If you are manually setting it up, the reference
angle should be set to 45. The inductive delay set to 60 and the dwell
set to 2ms Next locate the two pin connector in the main
harness with a twisted pair purple and green wires they will be marked Crank input Positive
and Crank input negative Connect the distributors mag pickup output to the two pin connector
making sure it is fully seated. Next locate the white point output wire in
the input / output harness and securely connect it to the point input wire of the Sniper coil
driver or CD box. This is usually a white wire as well but always
check the CD box manufacturers instruction for proper wiring. Always use proper connection practices with
quality terminals and crimping tools. It’s also a good idea to seal these connections
with adhesive lined shrink tube. Never connect the yellow wire or any other
wires from the EFI system to the coil wires on a CD system or severe ECU damage will result. Reconnect your negative battery terminal and
crank the engine over and verify that you are showing an RPM signal on the handheld
or the data monitor screen in the software. Next Select the tuning icon then the system
icon on your hand held and select static timing check. Move the slider to a base value, I generally
recommend 15 degrees and select set. using a timing light confirm that your cranking
timing is at your static timing of 15-degrees. It is important to note that you will need
to reset the static timing if you cycle the ignition off then back on, as this automatically
shuts it off. If it’s not correct, rotate the distributor
until it matches. Remember that if you need to rotate the distributor
body you will need to recheck the rotor phasing. Once it’s correct reinstall the fuel pump
relay and start the engine. Once again set the static timing set to 15
degrees and confirm that your timing is still at 15 degrees. If you’re thinking this is a redundant timing
check you are correct, I would rather check my timing twice then hurt my engine once. You can then select close on the static timing
screen and it will allow the ECU to resume control. It is normal to see the timing fluctuate at
this point. This is caused by the idle timing control using the timing to
help stabilize your idle speed. You can know set your desired timing through
the hand held or the pc software. For more helpful Sniper EFI tech tips and videos go to Holley.com

18 thoughts on “How To Setup a Magnetic Pick Up Distributor For Sniper EFI

  1. So if I change my reference angle on my handheld to 60°, do I then need to re-sync a reluctor wheel with the pickup pole with my engine at 60°? Also, if the pickup pole is between reluctor wheels, does it matter which direction I rotate it to align it? Thanks.

  2. Why are you telling people to set the ignition reference angle to 45 degrees when folks who set the ECU to control timing will have cruise timing set to atleast 40 if not 45 degrees? Doesn't the ECU need to have at least 10 degrees of lead time in order to receive the signal and then command the spark? before the rotor is past its point? I say this because it sounds like the spark will still deliver however the rotor will be past the point and cause spark scatter / EMI

  3. For those looking to phase the rotor, I also use a laser pointer. It costs like 5 bucks and I take the pointer tape the on switch and then take the laser pointer itself and tape it to the throttle body. Ill adjust the beam until it points right dead middle of the terminal of the cap. Then I will take the cap off and see where the pointer is pointing too. I will then adjust the rotor to be dead center of the beam. I will then reinstall the cap, check the dot to ensure its still center and then take the cap off to reaffirm. Once I'm happy, I install the cap and call it good. After install, I still have to adjust the distributor slightly to allow the distributor to fire what the ECU is commanding. I have found that no matter what, the distributor is at least a few degrees retarded and must be advanced once the engine is up and running.

  4. also, I set my ignition reference angle to 60 and it caused some EMI do to phasing that needs to be reset. IF your idle bounces on the screen from 1000 to 2000 or something like that causing chaos on the timing, you more than likely have EMI issues, set the min ref voltage to .5V and set the filtering to high. This can only be done on a laptop btw. 'Merica.

  5. Why does holleys instructions contradict this ones?
    Holleys instructions contradict your instructions.
    Engine only backfires and doesn't turn on. Either holleys instructions is shit or I'm doing somthing wrong which I'm forsure not.

  6. Can you do this same set up with terminator Stealth? Are you required to run a CD box with an MSD dizzy? What is the difference between an MSD 6a/6al and an MSD 6EFI?

  7. This is confusing as fuck! First set the damper at 45*. Later set it at 30* WTF! The rotor was not pointing at the number 1 cylinder.

  8. 17:40 So the system never ever advances the timing past the initial setting of 15 degrees like in a centrifugal advance distributor ? Even with an increase in engine speed no advance is required ?

  9. I followed this video over the over the written instructions that came with the Holley Sniper and had much better results. what an amazing product. Installed this on a 440 Mopar that hadn't ran in about 3 years, and when it did it ran poorly. After the install, which we used the mechanical timing in our MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; the car literally fired right up, and ran smooth….shocked everyone! Once we determined that the new EFI was working correctly we added the computer control ignition to it (as the instructions suggested to do). Had some issue our first time, but then went step by step and we couldn't be happier. when doing a static timing check I can adjust the timing in the handheld, and see the timing mark move to the exact spot on the crank in real time….really cool stuff. Holley you have made a customer for life. Great Product! and Thank You!

  10. none of this is in the booklet you get with the efi, and it conflicts with the information in the booklet. Just letting you guys know

  11. Every time I line up the reluctor wheel with the magnetic pickup the rotor does not line up with the #1 tower on the cap. Can I use an adjacent tower on the cap and use "that" one as the #1 and simply move the wires one spot over?

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