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How To Make The “Mini Master Sword”

For this project I’m going to show you how
to forge a “Mini Master Sword”, out of styrofoam. Make one just for fun and Cosplay.
Or bury it in a bucket of sand, and turn it into solid metal. However you wield your power,
is completely up to you, because with this Legendary Sword, you are the Master. Let’s begin this project, with another sheet
of dollar store foam board, and the Hot-Wire “Styro-Slicer” I showed you how to build
in a previous project. You’ll also need this “Mini Master Sword”
template, I drew in photoshop. And you can have it for free, if you just say thank you,
and check the description for a link. Now you probably remember that dollar store
foam board is just a layer of foam, sandwiched between two pieces of paper, and if we carefully
use a fingernail to pull up on one of the corners, the paper peels right off, with hardly
any trouble at all. Alright, let’s get busy cutting out all
the individual pieces from the template. And if you want to save yourself from having to
glue them on, then simply print your templates on full page label paper instead. Cut all the shapes out, as cleanly and neatly
as you can, then go find a glue stick, so we can stick them firmly onto the foam board,
next. Now when you’re adding glue to the back
of the paper templates, you don’t actually need to smear the entire piece of paper. That
will only make it trickier to get off later on. So just add a generous coating around the
edges instead, then take time to position the template carefully on the foam-board,
pressing the edges down as smoothly as you can get them. And if you utilize the space by keeping the
pieces close together, you’ll be able to get 3 swords, from one board. If everything looks smooth and secure, then
go ahead and power up the “Styro-Slicer”. The “Styro-Slicer” is a homemade hot-wire
foam cutting factory, that has adjustable power settings, for slicing styrofoam of all
shapes and sizes, and can probably create any custom Cosplay, or foam prop you can think
up. Alright, the first thing we need to do with
this foam board, is chop the templates down, into manageable pieces. I typically slide the foam up and down the
wire a few times, to rough out the foam pieces a little faster, then carefully trace each
of the shapes, once they’re smaller, and easier to work with. Now the two base blades need some really special
attention, so let’s focus on them next. Tracing around the edges of just the hilt,
and the handles first, you can see the hot-wire slices easily though the foam, but doesn’t
actually go through the paper. That’s really cool, because it leaves us
with a really smooth, and professional looking cut. Now hopefully you didn’t cut the blade out
yet, because there’s a cool little trick I’m going to show you for doing that next. Move the arm of the “Styro-Slicer” to
the side of the cutting base, then slide the wire back into the center of the work surface,
and you’ll see, you can adjust the angle of the wire. How cool is that? This means, that now we can give our blade
a nice beveled edge. So set the wire around 45º and double-check it’s pointing away
from you, then lay the sword flat on the cutting base, and trace the blade. Keep the wire as perpendicular to the lines
of the template as you can, then carefully trace the edges in four separate passes. When you’ve made it around to the other
side of the hilt, then stop, and pull the sword straight back toward you, to release
the wire. Go ahead and peel the styrofoam off, from
around the edges, and take a look, at that cool beveled blade. And now that you’ve got the hang of it,
go ahead and do the other sword the same way, so we can move on to modifying, the thickness
of the handle next. Now for this next trick, you’re going to
need to adjust the blade of the “Styro-Slicer” so it hangs horizontally over the cutting
base. And just like that, you’ve got the ability to cut foam bits, in half. The blade can adjust to any thickness you
want, but for simplicity, we’ll just be cutting a few select pieces, in half. The only parts that actually need to be downsized,
are the 2 small blades, and the 2 handle grips, which you can see leave us with 4 of each.
But you can scrap the ones with paper glued to them, because we won’t be needing them
anymore. Alight the pieces are all cut to shape, so
let’s peel the paper templates off the foam, and if you’re careful not to rip the paper,
you can actually use the templates again, to make another sword. Now before going any further, it’s a good
idea to layout all the pieces on a table to make sure they’re all there. You should have 28 pieces altogether, and if you do,
then let’s get busy gluing them together. There’s a little diagram on the template
that shows how the finished sword is going to look. So start assembling it by laying
one of the base blades flat on a table, and gluing the hilt to the top. Take a little time to adjust the bottom and
the sides so they match up with the base blade on the bottom. Then simply follow the pattern for the rest
of the pieces, and you should end up with two completed sides of the sword, that look
identical. Now simply add a generous amount glue, to
the flat sides on the bottom, then gently, but firmly, seal them together. That’s pretty much it. All that’s left
for finishing our “Master Sword” now, is carving out the Tri-Force. Use a pair of scissors, or an X-Acto knife
to carefully draw the 3 lines, to form a triangle in the middle, then carve the little channels
as deep as you like. With that final step, your 3D foam sword is
finished, and of course you can get creative, and customize it any way you want. I gently sanded the sword with a 220 grit
sanding sponge, to smooth down any imperfections, making our little homemade creation, look
surprisingly professional. Now before you get too crazy with your sword,
it’s a good idea to leave it overnight so the glue has a chance to dry completely. And if you plan on turning your sword into
aluminum, you’re going to need a foam riser like this as well. So you might as well make
one of those, while you’re waiting. Simply cut the riser to whatever length you
need, then bury the sword in a bucket of sand and pour hot molten aluminum overtop. You’ll see the styrofoam vaporizes instantly
from the extreme temperature, allowing the metal to flow in and take its place, before
the sand even has a chance to collapse. After 5-10 minutes of cooling, the metal will
still be scalding hot, but should be hard enough for you to grip onto with a pair of
pliers or channel locks, so you can unearth the sword, from the sand. Now the finer the sand you use, the more detail
will be captured in your casting. And if you’re happy with how it looks, just dip the whole
thing in a bucket of water to cool it, then clean it up a bit to finish it off. These swords will take some time, and some
skill to make, but they’re so low cost, that you can make a whole arsenal of foam
weaponry, for just a couple of bucks, and a bit of your time. Well now you know how to use a little electricity,
and some dollar store foam-board to forge a powerful, and impressive, “Mini Master
Sword”. By the way if you try experimenting with different
kinds of metals, you’ll probably find you can cast a sword, from just about anything
you want. I melted a few handfuls of bullet casings,
and turned them into a “Golden Sword”. It’s over 3 times heavier than aluminum,
but it makes a really cool addition, to my metal casting collection. Well that’s it for now. If you liked this
project, perhaps you’ll like some of my others. Check them out at

100 thoughts on “How To Make The “Mini Master Sword”

  1. This week in Popular Mechanics they discuss making a Styrofoam knife using orange oil and grain alcohol. I would be interested in seeing KoR replicate the process.

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