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How to Make a Cosplay Flintlock From EVA Foam. DIY Pirate Gun, Pistol


Are you still using the same sword your
father gave you for your tenth birthday? Well it’s time to stop living in the
past. Wow Wow Wow Hi my name’s Chris and I like to make
things. Today we’re gonna make a flintlock pistol. Start by printing out
your pattern and cut out pieces 1 to 5. Grab a 13 millimeter thick EVA
foam mat with puzzle piece edges. Trace piece number 1 right side up on your
foam then flip it over and trace it again, wrong side up. We’re doing this so
we can keep the textured side of the foam to the center of the pistol where
no one will ever see it. Now cut on the dotted line on piece number 1 and
trace that on to the right side up piece. Cut out both halves using a sharp knife.
When I’m cutting through thick foam I don’t try and cut all the way through in
one pass. Instead I cut along the same line three or four times until I’m all
the way through. Use a bit of 80 grit sandpaper to roughen up the textured
side of the foam to give the glue something to grab on to. Get out your hot
glue and glue the two sides together. Glue a small section at a time, wait for
that glue to cool and then glue the next section. Now we can’t just leave this
looking like a big flat chunk of foam. We’re gonna need to carve some contours
into it to make it look realistic. You could do this with your regular sharp
knife but I like to use an electric carving knife. It just makes everything
way quicker and smoother. So, I want to round off all the edges except for the
one right below where the barrel goes. I want the bottom of the handle to be nice
and rounded and then I want the width of the handle to taper in a bit right at
the curve of the handle. Remember that dotted line we traced on
the side? Well, that’s to remind us to keep that area flat so don’t use your
knife on there. Now just repeat the same thing on the
other side. Once you’ve got the basic shape, smooth it out with some 80 grit
sandpaper so it doesn’t look like you carved this with an axe. It’s a little
easier to get at that inside curve if you roll up your sandpaper. You can get
it a little bit smoother by using fine sandpaper but you’re never gonna really
get all that fuzzy texture off with sandpaper. In a minute I’ll show you what
I use to make this as smooth as possible, but for now let’s make a barrel. Cut a
piece of half-inch PVC conduit 17 centimeters long and then sand the piece
to roughen up the surface. Mark some lines two to three millimeters in from
the edge of the foam where the barrel is going to rest. Cut out a hollow groove
for the barrel. Start with your knife at a fairly vertical angle for the first
cut and then as each cut cuts deeper into the foam, angle your knife more and
more. Do this from both sides until you can pull out that middle chunk. And if
everything went according to plan your barrel should sit nicely in that groove.
Now all you got to do is glue the barrel in there. Don’t forget to glue the back
of your barrel to the stock. This is really important for the strength of the
pistol. The foam is still a little furry from my sanding but if you have a rotary
tool with a grinding stone you could smooth that out even further. It takes a
bit of practice because you have to find the right speed for that rotary tool to
spin at to smooth out the foam. Don’t forget to protect your lungs from the
evil creatures that live in the foam. You can see here how much smoother that
section is. Smooth. Once you’re done smoothenating everything you can cut
pieces 2, 3, 4, and 5 from two millimeter craft foam. Glue piece 2 to
the side of the stock where you had it marked out. Glue piece number 4
starting at the center line on the underside of the stock. Go around the
barrel and trim off any excess. Piece 5 goes down the center line behind
the barrel and piece 3 on the side opposite from piece 2. I wanted to use
a flat sheet of PVC, so I found this 3-inch end cap at the local hardware
store. Cut the flat part away from the circle-y part with your jeweler’s saw or
any other saw that might cut PVC. If you don’t know what a jeweler’s saw is, be
sure to watch my tutorial which you can find links to in the upper corner of
this video or in the description below. Pieces 6 to 10 are going to be cut out
of that flat sheet of PVC and make sure not to freak out cuz your pattern won’t
have a piece 11. I took that piece out. Just try to work around any
raised surfaces on the backside of that. Rough up the inside surface with some
sandpaper, apply a generous amount of glue from a glue stick, stick the pieces
down and let the glue dry. Grab your jewelers saw it and cut the
pieces out. I like to use a spiral blade for cutting PVC because it’s nice and
coarse and doesn’t cause as much friction melting the PVC and sticking to
the saw blade. Once they’re all cut out, fill up your basketball bowl with water
and throw them in. In a few minutes the water will dissolve the glue and you can
pull the paper off. Clean up the rough edges of your PVC with either sandpaper
or a file. Use super glue to glue piece 7 on either side of piece 6. Piece 10
goes top and center of the barrel right near the end and piece 8 on to piece 2.
Use a heat gun to heat up the little flange-y thing on the back of the
hammer. Once the PVC is pliable, twist it 90 degrees and hold it there until it
cools. Probably a good idea to wear some gloves so you don’t burn your fingers.
Decide what position you want your hammer to be in and glue it in place.
Grab your leftover PVC and cut the tube in half. Mark a line on one of the halves
that is one centimeter from the flat edge. You can use a thin strip of wood
under your pen to hold it at the right level and cut along that line. Sand or
file the edges nice and smooth, then grab your heat gun and start heating up the
PVC. I like to heat up a small section at a time until it’s flexible, bend it how I
like it, let it cool and then move to the next
section. You can use the trigger-guard profile on the pattern to help you get
the right shape. PVC plastic will release toxic fumes if it gets too hot so do it
in a well-ventilated space and don’t overheat the PVC. Also apologies for my
printer which has been a bit ridiculous lately making double copies on the paper
just to be annoying and confusing. Check and make sure it fits on your pistol and
give it any fine-tuning it might need. You also might want to round off the
ends. Now let’s make the trigger. Draw another line the same thickness on the
leftover piece from the leftover piece, and cut it about four centimetres long. I
actually show five centimetres in this video but that was wrong. It was too long.
Round one end and smooth off the edges using either a file or sandpaper. On the
square end, sharpen it up like a chisel so it’s easier to stick into the foam.
Line up and mark where your trigger needs to go, cut a slot in the foam, and
then jam your trigger in there with some glue. And then you can glue your trigger
guard in place. The trigger guard is really important because it adds
stiffness to the foam. If you wanted you could make it even longer and have it
run right down the handle. You should have a bit of leftover PVC that’s about
two centimeters wide. Grab a pencil you don’t mind destroying and mark its width
on the PVC. Cut two of these pieces and glue them together and then glue them on
the underside of the barrel. Grab a drill just slightly smaller than your pencil
and drill a hole in the stock of the gun for the pencil to stick into. This is
kind of tricky because you have a glue seam down the center of your stock and
your drill bits going to want to go to either side of that. So…have fun. Once the
hole’s drilled take the eraser out of the pencil and fill it with hot glue. Figure
out how deep your pencil will go into the hole, then pull it out and cut off
the tip so it ends up being just slightly shorter than the barrel. Sharpen
it up and glue it in the hole. And always remember: Test your smoke alarms once a
month. Glue the pencil to the PVC pieces on the bottom of the barrel. Now steal a
plastic tray from a baby. Glue two piece number 9s onto that
tray and cut them out with a jewelers saw. Glue them to the side of the pencil
and the PVC stack. Punch four 10 millimeter disks and three 6 millimeter disks
from craft foam. The 10 millimeter disks go here, here, here and
here. And the six millimeter disks here, here and here.
Cut some slots into the larger circles to make them look like screw heads. If
you like rivets, which everyone does, grab some epoxy, mix it together and apply it
with the back end of a paintbrush or something similar. If you do it carefully
you can make some nice little dots that look like rivets. Now open up a blue pen and use the tube
on the inside to make some fake rivet indentation things. And the last thing we
need to do before painting is add some strength to piece number 2 by filling
in this gap with hot glue. Return your tray to your child and sit down and
relax. Well that video is a little bit longer
than I thought it would be, so how about we stop here now that the pistol is all
made, and next week come back and I’ll show you how I paint it. There will be a
link to the pattern there and probably a link to the next video here once the
video is made. Now if you’re someone who really likes detail – watching really long,
somewhat boring videos – I should mention then on my patreon page thing I do often
post the long version of the tutorial. It doesn’t have any words and it’s four
times the normal speed and it’s about an hour long but it shows a lot more detail
of the boring bits of me like rubbing a bit of silver on and then dipping my
finger and rubbing a little bit more so if you’re really stuck and want to see a
longer more boring version you can go there and be a supporter on patreon. So
hopefully I’ll see you next week when we get out those paints and start
painting like crazy. Thanks for watching and see you next time.
Woo spinnin guns don’t try this at home

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