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How To Install The Holley Sniper EFI Conversion Fuel Tank

Congratulations on your purchase of your new
Sniper EFI Conversion Fuel Tank. Let me take you step by step through the installation
process now. The first thing you find when you open the
box is a fuel tank, specific to your application. We also include a set of straps, fuel level
sending unit, fuel level float, mounting gaskets and hardware for the pump and sending unit,
complete detailed instructions, the fuel pump module hanger, an in-tank fuel pump, filter
sock, a roll over valve, and clamp and zip ties to mount the pump. The first step in installation is to measure
the depth of your tank. Using the tape measure, measure the total
depth of the fuel tank at the larger, 2 and a quarter inch opening. Take your reading at the top of the fuel tank
surface. This tank has a depth of 6 and a quarter inches,
write this measurement down. Next you need to get a measurement of the
pump height with the filter sock installed. Do this by firmly pressing down on the pump,
in to the filter sock, then take your tape measure, and from a flat surface, measure
to the top of the pump or the base of the nipple, we’re right at 4 and a quarter inches. That will be your pump height. Now subtract the pump height, which was 4
and a quarter inches from the total depth of your fuel tank, 6 and a quarter inches,
in our case we come up with a 2 inch measurement. This 2 inches is measured from the base of
the fuel sending unit onto the fuel sending tube, place your mark at 2 inches, that’s
where we’re going to make our cut. Make a clean cut using a pair of sharp hose
cutters at the mark that you placed on the pick up tube. Using the heat gun will help you soften up
the material so you can slide the fuel pump on easier. Install the included hose clamp, remove the
protective cap from the fuel pump and firmly press the pump onto the supply line until
it is fully seated. Rotate the fuel pump now until it makes contact
with your return line, make a mark at the base of the fuel pump on your return line,
and cut a 45 degree angle on the return line itself. Now you can tighten the hose clamp on the
supply tube and zip tie the return tube directly to the fuel pump housing itself. Go ahead and cut the excess off now. Don’t forget to connect the power wires to
your fuel pump before installation. Before you install your fuel pump module,
make sure that the filter sock is indexed with any recesses that may be in the bottom
of your fuel tank, make sure to install the rubber gasket. Now your ready to install the complete fuel
module into the fuel tank. You’ll have to line up the pump hanger with
the gasket and the holes in the tank. Now go ahead and mount the fuel pump module
to the fuel tank using the supplied hardware. Your fuel pump module installation is now
complete. Now lets move on to installing our fuel level
sending unit. When using a fuel tank with depths between
6 inches and 15 and a half inches, the lower bracket is not needed, you’ll have to remove
the assembly, remove the lower bracket, and reinstall onto the upper bracket. Begin by removing the 2 Phillips head screws
that are holding the housing onto the lower mounting bracket. Retain these for later, you’ll need them to
remount it. Remove the other 2 Phillips screw heads that
hold the 2 mounting brackets together. Slide the lower bracket off, reinstall the
housing onto the upper bracket, and reinstall the mounting screws but do not tighten. Now using the 6 and a quarter inch measurement
that we determined earlier by measuring the depth of the tank, divide that by 2 and you
come up with 3 and an eighth inches, add another eighth of an inch for the gasket thickness,
and measure form the base of the fuel sending unit to the center line of the pivot to 3
and a quarter inches. Secure it and tighten your screw, and you’ve
established your height. It may be necessary to remove a portion of
the bracket below if it interferes with the bottom of your tank. You have to remove the temporary shaft installed
in the assembly and install the new float arm assembly. Lightly tighten the float arm retaining screw
for now. Using the adjuster screw, slide the shaft
up and down until your float level is approximately one eighth of an inch below the tank level. Once you’ve gotten your correct height, make
sure it swings through the motion completely, and mark the excess rod to show where you
need to make your cut. Now go ahead and install the rubber gasket
and install the fuel level sender into your fuel tank. Line up the holes in your tank with your gasket
and sending unit. Now install the included hardware and tighten,
and your complete. Now that we’ve got the fuel pump and the fuel
level sending unit installed, all you need to do now is install the correct fittings
that match up to your fuel supply and fuel return lines on your car. You also need to connect the wires for your
fuel sending unit as well as the positive and negative power for your fuel pump module. If your kit came with a roll over valve like
ours did, you’ll need to connect it to the tank vent and the fuel pump module vent using
a length of hose and a T connector. Remember the rollover valve needs to be higher
than the fuel filler level. All that’s left now to do is install our new
tank straps as well as the coupler for our filler neck and your ready to install. Pay special attention as you raise the tank
into position that you don’t pinch any of your wires or collapse the vent hose as your
raising it up. Finish by tightening the tank straps to the
manufactures recommended torque specs. Your installation of the Sniper conversion
fuel tank is now complete. Thanks for watching, for more information
on Sniper’s conversion fuel tanks, visit our website at

21 thoughts on “How To Install The Holley Sniper EFI Conversion Fuel Tank

  1. I bought an Aeromotive EFI conversion tank. It's the exact same tank from Tanks Inc, with different internals. Mine came fully assembled. I'm sure this is just as nice a tank, but it really should come assembled.

  2. What happened to the foam that was surrounding the fuel pump. My kit came with one and I just saw motor trend do the same tank and they left the foam on the pump and zip tied the return and supply lines to that. I just installed my sniper tank and did not put the foam on the pump. What is the correct install?

  3. What size and type fuel line and fittings do you get for the tank. I am doing a 1968 Camaro Conversion with the tank however I need to get the fittings and fuel line & return. There really is no kit I can find. Be nice if Holley included this with their tanks to simplify install.

  4. Thanks for these videos, it really helps on these installs. Had another question, where would you recommend the holley efi fuel filter placement with this Conversion Fuel Tank? Near the tank or is anywhere in the supply line ok.

  5. Shouldn't you of used fuel injection type clamps since snipper is actually a efi pressure pump to help keep leaks down and make sure you have full pressure to the efi unit….and also should run a ground wire to the sender to make sure your getting ground to the sender for good signal

  6. 600$ just for the tank –would have 1200$ just in the tank by the time you get it hooked up –i will stick with old school and be just as good for quarter the cost

  7. You bent the float arm assembly so it will fit down the hole with the rest of the fuel sender. I can see that it’s bent, you should have mentioned that in your video.

  8. The fuel sending unit in my car is 90 ohm- 0 ohm. Opposite of the GM 0 ohm- 90 ohm. Can I put the float facing the opposite direction to make this work?

  9. Hi Holley, I have a 1985 Cutlass Supreme and I am thinking about having a 5.3 with a Super Sniper 2×4 4150 and possibly running 1000+hp. I want a return line with the Sniper fuel tank and a fuel pump to support the power. Is there a way to have the setup that I wish for?

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