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How To Install a Sniper EFI Fabricated Intake – EP. 1: 1951 Studebaker Truck LS Conversion

Hey guys, Jeremy here from Holley performance,
and today I brought in Stewie, my 1951 Studebaker truck that just happens to have an LS engine
in it, and I’m going to show you how to install a Sniper EFI race intake as well as a few
other goodies, come on let’s get started. I know this is cheating, but I wanted to make
sure you have a good view of the install. Alright, you can see what I have here is pretty
much a bone stock LS 1 truck engine. Now before you remove the intake you want
to take a wire brush or a hard bristle brush and go around all the intake ports and anywhere
else that might meet the cylinder heads. Then take a blow tip and compressed air and
blow everything off. This prevents you getting any debris down
into the intake ports when you remove the intake. Once you’ve got the area around the imports
clean, you’ll need to remove all the electrical connections, any connections to the sensors,
vacuum lines, and anything else that might impede you from being able to lift the intake
off from the engine itself. Last but not least, you’ll need to disconnect
the fuel lines, it’s pretty straightforward, most factory fuel connections will require
a special fuel line disconnect tool, you can purchase or sometimes even rent this disconnect
tool at your local auto parts store. Once the fuel lines are removed, go ahead
and remove all 10 bolts that hold the intake tot he cylinder heads. Once you’re sure everything is disconnected,
lift straight up and remove the intake. Ok once you have the intake removed from the
engine itself, you’ll need to make sure that there’s no debris or gasket material left
on the head surface. To do this, it’s best to shove a rag down
into the intake port itself and then once again you can either take your brush or even
a razor blade and some solvent and you’ll need to clean around the intake ports completely. Do this with all the intake ports and blow
it off with compressed air before you proceed that way you get a good seal with the new
intake. To speed things up, I went ahead and did this
ahead of time. Now that we’ve got the intake surface clean
we can actually take a look at the Sniper intake itself. The first thing you’ll need to do before anything
is test fit it on your engine, that way we can make sure that the intake ports line up
and all the holes line up with the holes in your cylinder heads. One issue you might actually encounter, which
we did here, is that the factory hard line from the steam tube interferes with the intake
port flange. There’s a couple of ways you can go about
resolving this, you can carefully pry up on the hard line with a screwdriver until it
clears the flange, or you can purchase another kit through Earl’s, we actually have a couple
of different kits available for this system. I was able to use my screwdriver and pry up
on the tube to gain enough clearance to clear the intake flange. Once again just go around and check and make
sure that everything is seated completely and you’ll need to verify that all 10 holes
for the intake line up with the holes in the cylinder heads, if they don’t you might have
to oblong or reem the holes a little bit to allow the holes to clear. Alright now that we’ve verified that the intake
fits, we need to go ahead and install the intake runner O-rings for the LS engine. You’ll need to apply some grease or in this
case, I’m using Parker O-ring lube, or vaseline will also work, and install one into each
of the groves on the intake runners. Alright, once you have all eight of the O-rings
installed on the intake runners, you need to locate the package that has your vacuum
fittings and determine which ones, if any, you actually need to use. There are four ports located on the bottom
of the intake, if you’re going to install these, make sure to use some PTFE paste if
you’re not going to use them, then you need to go ahead and put plugs in them now. Go ahead and apply a generous amount of PTFE
paste to the threads and work it in with your finger. Now you’re ready to set the intake onto the
engine itself. Once again just reassure that all eight of
the O-rings are seated nicely. Now align the intake right above the heads
and come straight down as smooth as possible. Now install the included bolts and washers
that are supplied with the intake kit. The intake is held on by ten bolts but not
every hole on the intake will have a threaded hole below it in the cylinder head, and do
the same thing on the opposite side. Hey don’t forget, any time you’re installing
a steel or stainless steel bolt into aluminum, you should always use some type of anti-seize,
Earl’s carries two great products, a nickel-based anti-seize, and a copper-based anti-seize
which is really good for high heat applications. Now using the correct Allen wrench, start
each intake bolt, but don’t tighten them just yet. And finish with bolt number ten. Alright once all ten intake bolts are cinched
down lightly, go ahead and grab your inch-pound wrench and the instruction sheet. In the instructions, you’ll find a torque
sequence for installing the intake, sequence of events and how you need to torque down
the intake itself. You’ll start in the center or number one position
and work your way outward in a criss-cross pattern. You’ll have to repeat this pattern twice though,
the first pass will torque to 44 inch-pounds, and on the second pass, we’ll have to re-torque
to 89 inch-pounds. Now go ahead and adjust it to 89 inch-pounds
and lock your torque wrench and repeat the sequence. Starting with bolt number one, repeat this
process until you’ve done all ten bolts. Now that our Sniper intake is torqued down
to the engine correctly, we can go ahead and start installing our fuel rail kit. In the bottom of your Sniper intake box, you’ll
find a box underneath the false floor that has your fuel rails, a crossover tube, some
AN fittings, installation hardware, and the actual mounting brackets for the fuel rails
themselves. Before you go any further though, you need
to go ahead and get your fuel injectors lined up. You’ll need to apply some vaseline or O-ring
lube to the O-rings on your injectors. Install all eight injectors by firmly pressing
them down into the port of the intake. Make sure that you don’t pinch or damage the
O-Rings as you install them. Before you install your new fuel rails, take
note that on one side of the rails it actually has a chamfered hole, the side with the chamfered
hole needs to face outward. Go ahead and repeat the process for the other
side, line up your injectors, and press down firmly. Now, all we need is to install the six mounting
brackets that will actually secure the fuel rail to the intake manifold itself. Take the corresponding bolt. Install the brackets to the intake but don’t
tighten them yet, this allows us to line up and install the fuel rail bolts. Repeat this process for the five remaining
brackets. Now take the longer bolts and nuts supplied
in your hardware kit and run it from the outside in, making sure to line up with the holes
on our brackets that we just installed. Now you can install the lock washer and nut. Repeat this process for the remaining brackets. Now you can go ahead and tighten up the bolts
and don’t forget to tighten the bolts to the intake. Alright now you can take your AN fittings
and install the O-rings on them, use some grease or O-ring lube. Apply a couple of drops of oil to the fitting
threads will help prevent galling. To install the O-ring fittings properly simply
hand tighten them, and then tighten it a quarter of a turn more using the appropriate wrench. Repeat this for each port and tighten each
one. Now we can install a stainless crossover tube,
the ends swivel to make installation easy. Once you’ve got the position, you can go ahead
and tighten them down. The only thing left to do now is installing
the injector harness and make your necessary fuel line connections. Once your injector harness is completely installed,
your fuel rail installation is now complete. For this particular install, I chose to use
the Sniper 92 millimeter throttle body. You’ll notice when it comes, you’ll either
have to reuse the current IAC and TPS or purchase new ones. Holley carries new IACs, part number 543-105
and TPS sensors part number 870001. Since this is going on a Sniper manifold,
we’ll need to use this spacer plate that’s included in the intake kit as well as the
O-ring. Go ahead and apply a light lubricant such
as this O-ring lube or vaseline or grease to your O-ring before installing it. You may have to purchase four new bolts if
the bolts in the kit aren’t long enough to use with your spacer plate. First, install the O-ring into the groove
on the intake, make sure it’s seated well, then you’ll need to take the throttle body
spacer and the throttle body. Be sure on your throttle plate spacer that
the O-ring faces the throttle body and the O-ring on the intake will face the spacer. You can take one of your bolts and position
it, and then start it by hand, followed by the next three, just hand tighten them for
now, then using the torque wrench, tighten them to 89 inch-pounds in a criss-cross pattern. Now we can install the throttle position sensor
and the idle air control motor that we talked about earlier, I’m using new parts from Holley. It’s always a good idea to put a little bit
of grease or O-ring lube before installing, and then secure, and on the TPS you’ll see
it’s D shaped, the shaft is D shaped as well, simply slide it on. All that’s left to do now is route your throttle
cable, connect the PCV hose, make the connections at the sensors, and you’ll need to install
an elbow and intake with a filter of course. Next, we’re going to go ahead and install
this Holley LS valley cover in place of the factory one. First, you’ll need to remove all ten intake
bolts, disconnect all sensors and wiring connections, then disconnect any vacuum or fuel lines. Now you can lift and remove the intake. Next, we’ll need to remove the factory steam
tube assembly and NOC sensors, the NOC sensor connectors simply pull out, you may have to
pry on them a little though. Then we use a socket to loosen and remove
both NOC sensors. Now loosen the four bolts that are holding
the factory steam tube assembly to the engine block and remove it. Next, you’ll remove the ten bolts holding
the valley tray onto the engine itself. And you may have to pry this off. Once you have the assembly removed, you’ll
notice that there’s a gasket below the cover, you may be able to clean and reuse the gasket
if it’s still in good condition, so I’ll go ahead and remove all the bolts and I’ll keep
out gasket, we’ll go ahead and clean it out before we put it on the engine. Now we can grab our Holley LS trust valley
cover. Make sure to clean the mounting surface just
like you did the gasket. I already placed the gasket on their so all
you need to do now is set this on top, line up the bolt holes, and either install new
hardware or in this case the hardware that we pulled from the original. It’s always a good idea to start in four corners
and make sure everything is squared and lined up before you proceed. Follow the manufacturer’s suggested torque
pattern and torque specifications, now torque down the valley cover. While we’re at it, I’m going to go ahead and
replace the LS hard steam lines with one of these kits from Earl’s, we’re actually using
Earl’s steam tube adapter kit with the Speedflex hose, it’s fairly simple to install, and I’ll
show you how to do it. You’ll need to take the steam tube adapter,
be sure that the O-ring is facing down towards the engine block and it simply slides up into
there. Install your hose loosely so that way you
can still maneuver it and flex it as needed, and now we can install it. I’m using a second kit form Earl’s to provide
a crossover at the rear of the cylinder heads, but this isn’t necessary, you can use two
OEM block offs from GM to do the same thing. The front crossover is assembled just like
we did the rear. Install the Speedflex onto the Earl’s adapter,
now on this side, you’ll see that the adapter has a male -3 fitting, this is for the hose
that returns coolant to the radiator. It has an O-ring on both sides since coolant
flows through it. Line up the adapters, install your hardware,
and then tighten them all. These aftermarket steam tube kits offer more
routing flexibility and they look a lot better too. The last thing to do is take the hose, the
Speedflex line that actually goes from the adapter to your radiator, I don’t have the
radiator installed yet so we’ll just put this fitting on for right now and we’ll have to
cut the length later. Don’t forget to subscribe to the Holley performance
Youtube channel where you can see more great install videos with Stewie and if you’re lucky,
you might even see this thing run.

30 thoughts on “How To Install a Sniper EFI Fabricated Intake – EP. 1: 1951 Studebaker Truck LS Conversion

  1. Thank for the Video its awesome info being new to the LS Engine family I'm a little lost thou if you was going to put a block off plate on couldn't you put the block off plate on and the new steam lines before putting the new intake on just curious and also when you removed the knock sensors are they deleted from setup or do you run a knock sensor in a different location? Also can a sniper intake be used for boost application?
    And these instructional videos are just awesome I'll be purchasing a lot of Holley items in the near future. Thankx Again.

  2. I would have installed one of the stage 3 supercharged Studebaker engines in it long before another no imagination LS3 engine, stay true to the brand instead of installing commoner parts.

  3. Question, can you reverse the manifold to work under a cowl hood? I have an open 3" cowl hood on my '93 K1500 and it looks like the filter would fit directly under the opening.

  4. I have the same ls truck engine in my truck. Can you re use the same injectors or do you have to buy new ones? If so which ones

  5. Is there a reason why the knock sensors were not reinstalled? They are s vital part of the performance of engine. Just curious!

  6. Dont you need the knock sensors ?? I have a 99 ls1 i would like to eliminate them with one of these covers and do the same on the steam tubes

  7. What part number is the throttle body spacer an is there a throttle cable bracket needed if so whats the part number?

  8. Well @HolleyPerformace I am sticking with using knock sensors and I want to use a learn and tune system that uses and oxygen sensor of course and have a fuel air ration gauge on the Dash .
    I want to use about 50% E-85 and 50% 87 Octane gas.. taking 4 degrees of timing out might cost you about 4 MPG and 40 HP .. I guess you are trying to keep the cost down .. I am not building a motor for looks I am building for Performance reliability and Economy .. I like the LS-7

  9. So what do you do with the factory knock sensor? Do you still have one after you upgraded to the new cover?

  10. Is there a diagram for the vacuum line hookups, doing intake shopping but can't decide what to go with. Also where would I hook up the lines from the valve cover

  11. Why don’t I see too many trucks with this set up? Or and I just wrong? What’s the actual benefits of running this set up? I have a lm7, just asking… I kinda just want it cause it looks bad ass

  12. Did i miss something, or is the sniper 92mm now being machiend for the stock IAC? i HAD to purchase one to use mine, the stock did not work in the slightest

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